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{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=Z31 Nissan PRW-2 Ignition Upgrade|url=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/prw2.php.html|archive=https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/prw2.php.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}
{{ImportedFrom|site=Xenonzcar|title=Z31 Nissan PRW-2 Ignition Upgrade|url=https://z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/prw2.php.html|archive=https://z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/prw2.php.html|fetched=2026-05-15}}


== Z31 Nissan PRW-2 Ignition Upgrade ==
== Z31 Nissan PRW-2 Ignition Upgrade ==
Line 36: Line 36:
The unit you’ll be sourcing looks like this (PRW-2, but there is also a similar-looking PRW-1A):
The unit you’ll be sourcing looks like this (PRW-2, but there is also a similar-looking PRW-1A):


https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/prw2/prw2.jpg
https://z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/prw2/prw2.jpg


PRW-2 ignitor module (some units may be labeled PRW-1A but look nearly identical)
PRW-2 ignitor module (some units may be labeled PRW-1A but look nearly identical)
Line 44: Line 44:
On the Z31 harness, located on your driver-side strut tower behind the headlight (where the main ignition components are), you will find your current PTU.
On the Z31 harness, located on your driver-side strut tower behind the headlight (where the main ignition components are), you will find your current PTU.


https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/prw2/powertrans.png
https://z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/prw2/powertrans.png It probably looks like this.


The PRW-2 is not exactly plug and play, but it’s close. The issue with the newer PRW-2 is that two wires have been flipped, or two contacts need to be swapped on the Z31 harness. The procedure is simple and is outlined below.
The PRW-2 is not exactly plug and play, but it’s close. The issue with the newer PRW-2 is that two wires have been flipped, or two contacts need to be swapped on the Z31 harness. The procedure is simple and is outlined below.


-
#  '''Remove the black housing clip''' on the back of the Z31 harness gray connector to expose the seals on the back of the wires.
'''Remove the black housing clip'''on the back of the Z31 harness gray connector to expose the seals on the back of the wires.- You do not interact with or poke the seals.
* This step just allows you to pull the wires out.


-
#* You do not interact with or poke the seals.
'''Swap the black wire with the green/white wire.'''This is the only change needed to the harness.
#* This step just allows you to pull the wires out.


Pinout:- Blue – Signal to Coil and Tach
#  '''Swap the black wire with the green/white wire.''' This is the only change needed to the harness. <br />  https://z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/prw2/stockpins.jpg  https://z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/prw2/prw2pins.jpg  <br /> <br /> Pinout:
* Green – Signal from ECU and CAS
 
* Black – Ground
#* Blue – Signal to Coil and Tach
#* Green – Signal from ECU and CAS
#* Black – Ground


Note for early '84 models: If you had the 2-pin Power Transistor, you’ll need to swap over the later style connector. The wires are the same, but you are missing the black ground in your harness—so you must add a chassis ground to the black lead after swapping the pins.
Note for early '84 models: If you had the 2-pin Power Transistor, you’ll need to swap over the later style connector. The wires are the same, but you are missing the black ground in your harness—so you must add a chassis ground to the black lead after swapping the pins.


https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/prw2/early.jpg
https://z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/prw2/early.jpg


==== How to Remove Pins ====
==== How to Remove Pins ====


Insert a safety pin into the small rectangular hole just above the head of each contact pin from the inside of the connector. Lay the pin flat on top of the connector contact and slide it in gently until it stops.
Insert a safety pin into the small rectangular hole just above the head of each contact pin from the inside of the connector. Lay the pin flat on top of the connector contact and slide it in gently until it stops.
Do not force it—gently pry downwards to move the retainer inside the connector up and away from the pin, while gently tugging the back of the wire.
Do not force it—gently pry downwards to move the retainer inside the connector up and away from the pin, while gently tugging the back of the wire.
Do not use generic pin removal tools; they are usually too large, too thick, or not long enough.
Do not use generic pin removal tools; they are usually too large, too thick, or not long enough.


![Pin Removal Animation](images/prw2/2Pctu.gif)
https://z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/prw2/2Pctu.gif


==== Final Installation ====
==== Final Installation ====
Line 77: Line 75:
Once you’ve swapped the wires, you can then plug and play. Just find a good mounting location in the same area, ensuring you have solid metal-to-metal contact for proper heat sinking.
Once you’ve swapped the wires, you can then plug and play. Just find a good mounting location in the same area, ensuring you have solid metal-to-metal contact for proper heat sinking.


![Completed PRW-2 Install](images/prw2/complete.jpg)
https://z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/prw2/complete.jpg


=== Benefits ===
=== Benefits ===


The benefits of this modification include a smoother idle and quicker throttle response, as the PRW-2 uses a newer and faster transistor. As our cars get older and parts become more scarce, this upgrade will likely become even more common. Even aftermarket companies are beginning to replace the old part with the PRW-2, often including a small sub-harness to handle the wire swap for you.
The benefits of this modification include a smoother idle and quicker throttle response, as the PRW-2 uses a newer and faster transistor. As our cars get older and parts become more scarce, this upgrade will likely become even more common. Even aftermarket companies are beginning to replace the old part with the PRW-2, often including a small sub-harness to handle the wire swap for you.
[http://www.rockauto.com https://z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/images/prw2/airtex.jpg] Image courtesy of RockAuto.com


=== Sources Used ===
=== Sources Used ===


[https://dev.z31library.com/xenonzcar_archive/z31/z31fsm.php 1984-1988 Nissan 300ZX Factory Service Manual]- Modification found by:
* [[Z31/z31fsm php|1984-1988 Nissan 300ZX Factory Service Manual]]
[https://www.facebook.com/michael.palladino.79 Michael Palladino] - Images by Careless, Z_Karma, TearingRave,
* Modification found by: [https://www.facebook.com/michael.palladino.79 Michael Palladino]
[http://www.rockauto.com Rockauto.com] - Early transistor image by: Carrick Kendrick Video from The Z Garage
* Images by Careless, Z_Karma, TearingRave, [http://www.rockauto.com Rockauto.com]
* Early transistor image by: Carrick Kendrick Video from The Z Garage


[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]
[[Category:Imported from Xenonzcar]]

Latest revision as of 22:55, 20 October 2026

Imported page. This page was converted from an archived copy of "Z31 Nissan PRW-2 Ignition Upgrade" (Xenonzcar, fetched 2026-05-15). The conversion was mechanical, so tables, links and formatting may contain conversion artefacts. Compare against the archived copy if something looks wrong. The content belongs to its original authors.

Z31 Nissan PRW-2 Ignition Upgrade[edit]

This is a pretty simple modification for a more reliable spark for your Z31. This upgrade can also be used on the S130 by following the method with the 2-wire unit.

What is a PRW-2[edit]

This PRW-2 install guide pertains to the following item, which goes by several names:

  • Power Transistor Unit
  • Ignition Control Module
  • Ignitor Chip
  • Ignition Transistor

This is the transistor that charges and discharges the ignition coil. It can be found on a number of distributor-equipped Nissans.

Interchange[edit]

Where to Find a PRW-2 Unit[edit]

You can get a PRW-2 unit from any of the following models:

  • INFINITI M30 (1990 – 1991)
  • NISSAN ALTIMA (1993 – 1997) — Located under the airbox
  • NISSAN AXXESS (1990 – 1992)
  • NISSAN D21 PICKUP (1990 – 1994)
  • NISSAN MAXIMA (1989 – 1994) — Located near the distributor on a bracket
  • NISSAN NX (1991 – 1993)
  • NISSAN PATHFINDER (1987 – 1995)
  • NISSAN PICKUP (1995 – 1996)
  • NISSAN PULSAR NX (1989 – 1990)
  • NISSAN SENTRA (1989 – 1994)
  • NISSAN STANZA (1990 – 1992)

The unit you’ll be sourcing looks like this (PRW-2, but there is also a similar-looking PRW-1A):

prw2.jpg

PRW-2 ignitor module (some units may be labeled PRW-1A but look nearly identical)

PRW-2 Install: Pin Swap & Mounting[edit]

On the Z31 harness, located on your driver-side strut tower behind the headlight (where the main ignition components are), you will find your current PTU.

powertrans.png It probably looks like this.

The PRW-2 is not exactly plug and play, but it’s close. The issue with the newer PRW-2 is that two wires have been flipped, or two contacts need to be swapped on the Z31 harness. The procedure is simple and is outlined below.

  1. Remove the black housing clip on the back of the Z31 harness gray connector to expose the seals on the back of the wires.
    • You do not interact with or poke the seals.
    • This step just allows you to pull the wires out.
  1. Swap the black wire with the green/white wire. This is the only change needed to the harness.
    stockpins.jpg prw2pins.jpg

    Pinout:
    • Blue – Signal to Coil and Tach
    • Green – Signal from ECU and CAS
    • Black – Ground

Note for early '84 models: If you had the 2-pin Power Transistor, you’ll need to swap over the later style connector. The wires are the same, but you are missing the black ground in your harness—so you must add a chassis ground to the black lead after swapping the pins.

early.jpg

How to Remove Pins[edit]

Insert a safety pin into the small rectangular hole just above the head of each contact pin from the inside of the connector. Lay the pin flat on top of the connector contact and slide it in gently until it stops. Do not force it—gently pry downwards to move the retainer inside the connector up and away from the pin, while gently tugging the back of the wire. Do not use generic pin removal tools; they are usually too large, too thick, or not long enough.

2Pctu.gif

Final Installation[edit]

Once you’ve swapped the wires, you can then plug and play. Just find a good mounting location in the same area, ensuring you have solid metal-to-metal contact for proper heat sinking.

complete.jpg

Benefits[edit]

The benefits of this modification include a smoother idle and quicker throttle response, as the PRW-2 uses a newer and faster transistor. As our cars get older and parts become more scarce, this upgrade will likely become even more common. Even aftermarket companies are beginning to replace the old part with the PRW-2, often including a small sub-harness to handle the wire swap for you.

airtex.jpg Image courtesy of RockAuto.com

Sources Used[edit]